Checking the sharp of motorcycle battery is ok, and detecting the case whether is bulging, spilling, split up, corrosive of terminal. If these are going on, your motorcycle battery is bad.
Second, checking the voltage of battery
1. In charging after 2 hours, check the voltage of a single cell of battery in three times at intervals of 20 minutes. If the single cell of battery voltage exceeds 15V or less than 13V, indicating that the motorcycle battery has some problems.
2. In discharging, use multimeter to measure the voltage of a single cell of battery in three times at intervals of 10 minutes. If the one of single cell of battery voltage fall off faster than others, and the voltage less than 10V, plus the minimum discharge time, this battery is problem battery.
3. Check the static voltage (float power) of the single cell of battery, when the voltage is zero, there are two possibilities: one is the battery completely open circuit, the circuit blocked cause the voltage to zero. Another is the battery place too long to the voltage as low as 1-2V, even zero.
Final to check whether the electrolyte is “water loss”, black.
In charging after 3-6 hours, touch the side of each cell of battery case, if the battery is very hot, this battery is necrotic. If only a little heat, and the temperature at 40 degree, while charging the charger light always red, indicating the battery is serious “water loss”. In addition, you can open the battery cover and check the “water loss” status.
Electrolyte status can judge whether the plate is good or bad. Open the above cover of motorcycle battery, and you can see six circular holes, check the color of the electrolyte of each hole, if black, indicating the plate lead powder had come off, and this motorcycle battery is bad.
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